Subscriber Jay Shah
SubscriberForum Replies Created
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If you don’t want to use the DoF calculator in the field… you can always roughly focus third way into your scene.
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Autofocus relies on contrast and light. In low light, using a higher ISO helps the sensor and AF system “see” better thus results in faster and more accurate autofocus. Using a lower ISO in low light condition (underexposing), the camera will start to hunt for focus.
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It’s almost always better to capture a noisy image than a blurry one. Motion blur is usually unrecoverable, whereas noise can often be cleaned up effectively with today’s powerful denoising tools. If boosting ISO helps you get a sharp frame, it’s worth it. Some modern sensors are also ISO invariant… meaning that shooting at a low ISO and underexposing, then lifting the shadows in post, results in similar noise levels to shooting at a higher ISO with correct exposure. For example, an image taken at ISO 800 and brightened later can look very close to one shot at ISO 6400. That said, not all cameras are fully ISO invariant, so it’s helpful to know how your specific camera behaves. But in general, a sharp image with noise will almost always be more usable than a blurry one.
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Test with turning Pre-AF and AF w/shutter OFF.
If that does not work, I would say try testing using a small focus area.
Disclaimer: I do not own this camera, so I may not be accurate.
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In aperture mode, you will not be able to manually control the shutter speed. You can use exposure compensation, but that will change the ISO first. For this you can use the manual mode, set the aperture to the lowest, set iso to auto(min and max) or desired iso and then manually change the shutter speed.
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FYI: if the camera computed these settings in aperture mode, there is a high chance you will under/overexpose the shot if you change the shutter speed in manual mode while keeping aperture and iso the same.