[Sudhir Shivaram]

You can upload in the main feed only if you are an all in once pack subscriber.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Check this to start with:

https://www.sudhirshivaramphotography.com/best-camera-and-lens-for-photography/

sudhirshivaramphotography.com

Best Camera and Lens for Photography - Sudhir Shivaram Photography

Best Camera and Lens for Photography - Sudhir Shivaram Photography

[Sudhir Shivaram]

We have found out that this issue happens only on Android phones where the photos are stored on google photos and not on local phone. It will take time to fix this issue.

Alternatively you will have to upload images from a comp or any device where photos are stored locally.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Please mention your city and also what kind of prints and for what purpose.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

You have mentioned supporting lens gear but have not mentioned what it is. Camera is ok, but depends on lens. Don’t upgrade or change just for the sake of it.

Start shooting with what you have and once you find the issues or drawbacks of existing equipment, only then think of change or upgrade.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

For any of the Nikon mirrorless, you can refer the Z9 course.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Good question — and since you already have a Nikon D500 and are thinking of Nikon Z50 II, it’s useful to compare realistically what you gain and what trade‑offs you accept when switching. Below is a balanced, expert‑level take based on real-world performance and how it aligns with wildlife / bird photography (which you focus on).

✅ Where Nikon Z50 II Does Well (and Makes Sense)

• The Z50 II uses the same APS‑C (DX) sensor size as the D500 — so you keep the 1.5× “crop reach” benefit that is often useful for wildlife/tele lens work.

• The autofocus system has been modernized: Z50 II offers hybrid on‑sensor AF with subject detection including animal/bird eye‑AF, which is a significant plus for bird and wildlife photography.

• Burst shooting: mechanical shutter continuous shooting at 11 fps — nearly on par with the D500 (10 fps) for action/flight shots.

• Mirrorless benefits: lighter body (makes handheld walking/traveling easier), electronic viewfinder and live‑view benefits, silent shooting (good for shy wildlife), often more convenient for travel due to compactness.

• Modern processing: Faster image processor, improved usability, newer interface and ergonomics, which may help in today’s workflows (especially if you also shoot video or hybrid content)

So if you value lighter gear, portability, modern AF with bird/animal detection, and a mirrorless workflow, the Z50 II can be a good companion — especially for field travel, casual wildlife, birds, perhaps travel + wildlife mix.

⚠️ But — Where Z50 II is Not a Full Substitute for the D500 (Especially for Pro‑Level Wildlife Work)

• The legendary build, ergonomics, battery endurance, and AF reliability of the D500 remain hard to beat — many experienced wildlife shooters still consider D500 one of the best APS‑C DSLRs ever made.

• While Z50 II is strong, some long‑time users say that for demanding wildlife (fast birds, erratic movement), D500’s DSLR AF and handling still give an edge.

• As of now, lens ecosystem for Z mount (DX/APS‑C + full‑frame Z lenses) may be catching up, but for heavy telephoto wildlife needs, you need good Z lenses — and that often comes at cost or weight penalty.

• Lack of in-body image stabilization (IBIS) — for handheld telephoto work in low light, this remains a limitation compared to setups where lens or body stabilized systems exist.

🎯 My Expert Recommendation (Given Your Background & Use Case)

Since you already have D500 and are comfortable with it:

• If you want a “lighter, travel‑friendly second body” — Z50 II is a good add-on (not replacement). It offers modern AF, portability, and mirrorless ergonomics that complement your heavier telephoto setup.

• If your core work remains serious wildlife, fast action birds, consistently high performance, I would continue with D500 + good tele lens — because D500 still holds up extremely well, especially in challenging conditions.

• Use Z50 II when you need flexibility: travel safaris, daylight shoots, or as a backup body — but don’t expect it to fully “replace” D500 for critical wildlife shooting situations.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Want to earn some extra income from your photography?

Here’s a helpful guide for anyone looking to sell their high-quality images and generate some income — especially useful to fund your photography travel or gear, without affecting your regular expenses.

✅ Genuine Platforms to Sell Your Photos Online

📸 Shutterstock – One of the world’s most popular stock platforms. Upload your wildlife, travel, or landscape photos, and earn every time someone downloads your image.

👉 https://submit.shutterstock.com

📸 Adobe Stock – Great for photographers who already use Lightroom or Photoshop. Seamless integration and good payouts.

👉 https://contributor.stock.adobe.com

📸 Getty Images / iStock – Premium platform used by top publications and agencies. Best suited for high-quality editorial or creative work.

👉 https://contributors.gettyimages.com

📸 Dreamstime – Easier entry, good for beginners. Offers both editorial and commercial sales.

👉 https://www.dreamstime.com/sell-stock-photos-images

📸 EyeEm – A creative marketplace for lifestyle, travel, and artistic photos. Also links your work to other stock partners.

👉 https://www.eyeem.com

🖼️ Your Own Website / Portfolio / Print Shop – Full control over pricing and presentation. You can sell fine-art prints, limited editions, or license your images directly to buyers. Platforms like Format, Pixpa, Zenfolio, or SmugMug are good options.

💡 Tips to Get Started

• Focus on quality over quantity – well-composed, well-exposed, and technically sharp images sell better.

• Use strong keywords and metadata – describe the subject, location, species, setting, etc. to improve search visibility.

• Upload regularly and build a portfolio across multiple platforms for better visibility and income.

• Respect ethical guidelines especially for wildlife photography — and avoid overly manipulated images unless allowed.

• Consider post-processing your images properly before uploading — clean up distractions, maintain natural tones, and ensure images are export-ready.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

✅ How to Update Firmware on Canon 77D

1. Check current firmware version

   On the 77D, go to the Menu → Setup (wrench icon), and scroll to “Firmware Version” (or similar). This shows what version your camera currently has.

2. Download the latest firmware

   Visit the official support page for EOS 77D on Canon’s website. The latest update is Version 1.1.0 (for bodies that have firmware up to 1.0.3).

   • On Windows: download the .zip file

   • On Mac: download the .dmg file

3. Prepare your memory card & camera battery

   • Use a fully‑charged battery (very important).

   • Format a memory card in camera before using it for firmware — or use a card you don’t mind wiping.

4. Copy firmware file to card

   Extract the downloaded file (if zipped) and copy the .FIR firmware file to the root directory (top-level) of the card (not inside any folder).

5. Insert the card & run update

   Put the card back in camera, turn on the 77D, go to the firmware menu, and select “Update.” Confirm and don’t switch off the camera or press any buttons during the update.

6. Restart and verify

   Once the update finishes, camera will prompt you. Turn it off, then on again — go back to firmware menu to confirm the version is updated to 1.1.0

[Sudhir Shivaram]

📷 Recommended Cases

• Nikon Leather Camera Case – A simple, compact, and affordable leather‑style case. Good if you just want a snug‑fit protective sleeve for the P1100 — ideal for everyday carry or quick outings.

• K&F Concept Camera Sling Bag – A versatile sling bag with padding that accommodates small cameras or compact/bridge cameras like P1100. A good balance between portability and protection, especially for field work or travel.

• CarryPro Camera Cube V2.0 with Sling Belt – Slightly larger padded cube‑style bag; useful if you want space to carry a camera, a small lens or accessories (like extra memory cards, batteries). Water‑resistant and travel‑friendly.

• Besnfoto Unisex Small Mirrorless Camera Shoulder Bag – A small shoulder bag that works for compact cameras or mirrorless bodies. Useful if you want something more flexible than a simple case but still lightweight.

• Nikon Holster Bag for COOLPIX P1000 Digital Camera – Although the name refers to P1000, holster-style bags usually fit Nikon coolpix‑type cameras well. Compact and easy to carry — good for casual walks or travel when you want minimal bulk.

• DSLR Camera Bag Backpack – A basic backpack‑style bag, suitable if you want to carry extra accessories (maybe a tripod, extra batteries, chargers) along with your P1100. Good for travel or longer field trips.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

For wildlife RAW‑file editing (or any serious photo editing), your desktop computer really matters — because handling large RAW files, batch edits, and heavy post‑processing (in Adobe Lightroom, Adobe Photoshop or similar) needs good CPU power, RAM, storage and ideally a decent GPU.

What to Look for — Minimum / Recommended Specs for RAW & Wildlife Editing:

Based on recent recommendations for photo‑editing PCs:

• CPU (Processor): Intel i5 / i7 or AMD Ryzen 5 / 7 minimum. For heavier editing or batch processing, go for higher‑end: Intel i9 / Ryzen 9 or workstation‑class CPU.

• RAM: At least 16 GB — but ideally 32 GB or more, especially if working with high‑resolution RAW files or multiple layers in Photoshop.

• Storage: SSD (NVMe preferably) for OS + current editing files for speed. Good practice: SSD for working files + separate HDD/SSD for backups/storage.

• GPU (Graphics Card): While RAW photo‑editing is more CPU‑intensive, a dedicated GPU helps accelerate certain tasks (e.g. GPU‑accelerated filters, previews, exporting). A modern NVIDIA or AMD GPU with dedicated memory (4 GB+ VRAM) is ideal when using high‑res files or 4K displays.

• Monitor / Display (if relevant): A colour‑accurate display (preferably IPS or better, with good colour space coverage) — essential for proper RAW editing, colour correction and printing prep.

  Which one to go for – depends on your budget. Without knowing your budget, difficult to recommend.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Hi Shoeb, I would highly recommend carrying a second body. Absolutely needed. And no need to buy it right away. At Delhi you can rent the equipment and use it. Contact GP Pro https://gppro.in/

[Sudhir Shivaram]

If it’s birding and wildlife, then I would recommend the Sony 400mm f2.8 along with the converter.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Please do go through the courses as per the learning path document. You need to get a good understanding about exposure triangle, metering and ev to operate completely in manual exposure mode which I teach in the course.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

That’s a very common issue many photographers face when using long lenses like the Canon RF 100–400mm — especially hand-held or in low light. Let’s go step-by-step so you can troubleshoot and fix it easily.

1️⃣ Blurry Images — Possible Causes and Fixes

a) Shutter speed too slow

At 400 mm, even small hand movement causes blur.

Fix:

• Use a minimum shutter speed of 1/1000 sec for moving subjects, 1/500 sec for static ones.

• If shooting handheld or from a vehicle, go faster — even 1/1600 sec if light allows.

b) Focus accuracy

• Use Servo AF (AI Servo) mode for moving subjects.

• Use single point or small zone AF, and place it precisely on the subject’s eye or head.

• Avoid “Face/Eye AF” if the camera keeps picking up background or wrong subject.

c) Camera shake

• The RF 100–400 mm has in-lens IS (Image Stabilization) — keep it ON for handheld shots.

• If you’re using a tripod, switch IS OFF to avoid micro-vibrations.

• When handholding, keep elbows tucked, lean against support, or use a beanbag/monopod in safaris.

d) Heat haze or atmospheric distortion

In open fields or hot conditions, heat shimmer can soften distant subjects.

Fix: Try to shoot early morning or late evening when the air is stable.

2️⃣ Noisy Images — Possible Causes and Fixes

a) High ISO

• Noise increases above ISO 3200 on the R8.

  Fix:

  • Use wider apertures (f/5.6 – f/7.1) and higher shutter speeds only as needed.

  • Increase ISO only when absolutely necessary.

  • Expose correctly — slightly overexpose by +⅓ EV if safe; underexposure amplifies noise when brightened later.

b) Low light

• Try shooting in good natural light; avoid very cloudy or dim conditions.

• If possible, lower ISO and use support (monopod/tripod) to allow slightly slower shutter.

c) Post-processing

• Use software like DxO PhotoLab (DeepPRIME XD) or Topaz Photo AI for excellent AI noise reduction without losing detail.

3️⃣ Ideal Starting Settings (for Wildlife or Birds)

• Mode: Manual with Auto ISO

• Shutter: 1/1000 – 1/1600 sec

• Aperture: f/6.3 – f/7.1

• ISO: Auto (limit max ISO 6400)

• AF Mode: Servo AF (Animal Eye Detection ON)

• Drive: High-speed continuous

• Metering: Evaluative

• IS: ON (Mode 1)

4️⃣ Extra Tips

• Make sure the lens and camera firmware are updated.

• Avoid shooting fully extended at 400 mm if light is very low — zoom out slightly (to ~350 mm) for sharper results.

• Review at 100 % zoom on your computer — sometimes mild motion blur looks like “soft focus” in the field display.