[Sudhir Shivaram]

Regarding the first part, that is extensively covered in my Wildlife Photography Masterclass course here on the platform.
If you have subscribed to my online photography courses, then I am already your mentor and you are part of this platform. And you can always attend my tours to further learn from me in the field.

Rgds,
Sudhir

[Sudhir Shivaram]

That’s because of the specification of each lens is different.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

I would recommend the RF 200-800 since your purpose is mainly wildlife.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Difficult to recommend without knowing the budget.

1️⃣ Budget All-Rounder (Best for Beginners)

📌 Canon RF-S 18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM (~₹45,000)

✅ Great for travel, portraits, street, and landscape

✅ Image Stabilization (IS) for handheld shots

✅ Lightweight & compact

✅ Covers wide-to-telephoto range (18mm-150mm)

❌ Not as sharp as prime lenses at 150mm

2️⃣ Best for Wildlife & Sports

📌 Canon RF 100-400mm f/5.6-8 IS USM (~₹58,000)

✅ Best for wildlife, bird photography & sports

✅ 400mm reach (good zoom for APS-C)

✅ Image Stabilization for sharp shots

❌ Slow aperture (f/5.6-8) – not great in low light

3️⃣ Best for Budget Telephoto Zoom

📌 Canon RF-S 55-210mm f/5-7.1 IS STM (~₹35,000)

✅ Good for wildlife, sports, and portraits

✅ Image Stabilization (IS)

✅ Cheaper than 100-400mm

❌ Not great in low light

4️⃣ Professional Zoom (Best Image Quality)

📌 Canon RF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM (~₹1,45,000)

✅ Super sharp, fast AF, and excellent low-light performance

✅ Lightweight & compact for an L-series lens

✅ Professional quality for sports & wildlife

❌ Expensive

🔹 Which One Should You Buy?

✔️ For an all-in-one zoom lens: Canon RF-S 18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM

✔️ For wildlife & sports on a budget: Canon RF-S 55-210mm f/5-7.1 IS STM

✔️ For serious wildlife photography: Canon RF 100-400mm f/5.6-8 IS USM

✔️ For professional quality: Canon RF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Hi Vinaya,

My recommendation is to go for Sony mirrorless cameras as the technology of that is much better than the others and will help you in your photography.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Make sure your processed image is around 2-3MB in size with a dimension of about 1200px on longer side. That should do.
Also if you could explain your steps of processing and saving, that would help understand.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

• Enable it if:

✅ You often shoot in dusty/windy conditions (wildlife, outdoor photography).

✅ You are careful when changing lenses.

✅ You want to reduce sensor cleaning frequency.

• Disable it if:

❌ You frequently shoot in humid or freezing environments.

❌ You change lenses carelessly or in high-risk situations where you might touch the shutter.

❌ You prefer to clean the sensor manually instead of risking shutter damage.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Here’s a step-by-step guide along with some ideas to help you build an impressive portfolio.

🔹 Step 1: Plan & Define Your Niche

Event photography can cover various types:

• 🎉 Weddings & Engagements

• 🎤 Corporate Events & Conferences

• 🎭 Concerts & Music Festivals

• 🎂 Birthday Parties & Private Events

• ⚽ Sports & Live Events

• 📢 Political & Public Gatherings

• 🏢 Brand Launches & Trade Shows

👉 Decide which niche you want to focus on, or if you prefer a general event photography portfolio.

🔹 Step 2: Get Initial Work for Your Portfolio

If you don’t have paid gigs yet, you can still build a portfolio by:

1️⃣ Shooting Free or Low-Paid Events

✅ Offer free or low-cost coverage for small events, NGOs, or local businesses in exchange for permission to use photos.

✅ Attend public events, festivals, and gatherings to practice and capture real moments.

✅ Collaborate with friends, local businesses, or influencers who need event photos.

2️⃣ Volunteering for Non-Profits & Small Businesses

✅ Cover community events, fundraisers, school events, or local meetups.

✅ This helps build credibility and get real-world event shots.

3️⃣ Second Shooting for Established Photographers

✅ Assist professional photographers at weddings, corporate events, or concerts.

✅ Many pros need second shooters—this is a great way to learn and get real-world portfolio images.

4️⃣ Create a Styled Event Shoot

✅ Organize a mock event with models or friends to simulate a real event.

✅ Rent a small space, set up lights and decorations, and create aesthetic, professional images.

🔹 Step 3: Capture a Variety of Shots

Your portfolio should show that you can handle different scenarios at an event.

📌 Essential Shots to Include in Your Portfolio:

✅ Candid Moments – Guests enjoying, laughing, dancing

✅ Detail Shots – Decor, food, drinks, lighting, table setups

✅ Wide-Angle Shots – Crowd, stage, venue ambiance

✅ Portraits & Group Shots – Speakers, VIPs, attendees

✅ Action Shots – Dance, speeches, performances

✅ Behind-the-Scenes – Staff, event setup

🔹 Step 4: Edit & Curate Your Best Work

🎯 Quality over Quantity – Choose 15-25 of your best images that highlight your storytelling ability.

🎯 Consistency – Keep a cohesive editing style (natural, vibrant, or dramatic).

🎯 Retouching – Clean up noise, adjust lighting, and enhance key details.

🔹 Step 5: Build an Online Portfolio

You need a professional online presence to attract clients.

📌 Best Platforms for Your Portfolio

1. Website (Highly Recommended)

• Use Squarespace, Wix, WordPress, or Pixieset to showcase your work.

• Have sections like Gallery, About Me, Services, Contact.

• Add a booking form for inquiries.

2. Instagram & Social Media

• Post highlights from your events with engaging captions.

• Use relevant hashtags (#eventphotography, #corporatephotographer, etc.).

• Engage with potential clients through stories & posts.

3. Behance & 500px

• Upload your best shots for additional visibility.

4. Google Drive / PDF Portfolio

• If you’re reaching out to corporate clients, a PDF portfolio works well.

🔹 Step 6: Market Yourself

🔹 Offer first-time client discounts to gain traction.

🔹 Network with event planners, venues, and agencies.

🔹 Join Facebook groups & LinkedIn for event photography gigs.

🔹 Run small ads on Instagram & Facebook targeting event managers.

🔹 Video Guide for Portfolio Building

I don’t have a specific video, but here are some YouTube channels that cover event photography & portfolio building:

🎥 Jared Polin (FroKnowsPhoto) – Practical event photography tips

🎥 Mango Street – Clean, stylish photography portfolio tips

🎥 Sorelle Amore – Portfolio presentation & personal branding

🎥 Sean Tucker – Deep insights on photography style & storytelling

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Buying a second-hand camera through OLX (or any marketplace) requires careful inspection and asking the right questions to ensure you don’t end up with a faulty device. Here’s a detailed checklist to help you:

Questions to Ask the Seller

1. Why are you selling the camera?

• This gives insight into whether it’s due to an upgrade or potential issues.

2. How old is the camera?

• Ask for the purchase date or invoice copy (if available).

3. What is the shutter count?

• The shutter count is like a car’s mileage.

• Most DSLRs/Mirrorless cameras have a shutter life (e.g., 100,000 – 500,000 shots).

• Less than 30,000-50,000 is good for a used camera.

4. Has the camera been repaired or serviced?

• Check if it had any major repairs, sensor replacements, or internal damage.

5. Any issues with the sensor, autofocus, or buttons?

• Some cameras may have autofocus lag, dead buttons, or sensor issues.

6. Are you including the original accessories?

• Battery, charger, strap, memory card, box, and manuals.

• Check if the battery life is still good.

7. Has the camera been exposed to water or moisture?

• Any history of water damage or fungus inside the lens?

8. Is there any warranty left?

• Some cameras have an extended warranty—ask for details.

Things to Check Physically Before Buying

📷 Body & Buttons

✅ Check the camera body for scratches, dents, or cracks

✅ Press all buttons and dials to ensure they are working

✅ Look at the LCD screen for scratches, dead pixels, or fading

📸 Lens & Sensor

✅ Check the lens mount – It should not be loose or wobbly

✅ Remove the lens and inspect the sensor for dust, scratches, or fungus

✅ Attach a lens and test autofocus + manual focus

🔍 Shutter Count & Image Quality

✅ Take a few test shots at different settings

✅ Check the images for spots, sensor dust, or banding

✅ Use a website like shuttercount.com or software to check shutter count

🔋 Battery & Performance

✅ Check if the battery holds a good charge

✅ Turn the camera on and off a few times to check boot-up speed

Red Flags to Avoid 🚨

❌ Very low price (too good to be true) – Possible scam or faulty camera

❌ Seller avoids meeting in person or refuses testing

❌ No original bill, missing accessories, or warranty papers

❌ Shutter count is extremely high (>100,000 shots)

❌ Dents, fungus in the sensor/lens, or damaged body

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Yes, using an EF-to-RF adapter on your Canon EOS R with the Sigma 60-600mm f/4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM Sports (EF mount) can sometimes introduce autofocus inconsistencies. The issue you’re describing—AF shifting slightly after focusing—can be due to a few key reasons:

Possible Causes of AF Issue

1. Adapter Compatibility Issues

• Canon’s official EF-EOS R adapter works well, but third-party adapters (Viltrox, Commlite, etc.) can cause minor AF issues.

• Even with Canon’s official adapter, some third-party lenses like Sigma & Tamron may behave differently from native Canon EF lenses.

2. Sigma Lens AF Algorithm Differences

• Sigma lenses (EF) were designed for DSLR phase-detect AF, while Canon EOS R mainly relies on Dual Pixel AF (DPAF).

• The translation between DSLR-style AF and mirrorless DPAF through an adapter can introduce slight focus drift at the end of AF.

• Sigma firmware may not be fully optimized for RF mount AF behavior.

3. Lens Firmware Update Needed

• Sigma frequently releases firmware updates for better Canon mirrorless compatibility.

• You may need to update your Sigma 60-600mm lens firmware via Sigma USB Dock.

4. Focus Breathing or Slight Backlash in Focus Mechanism

• Some long zoom lenses (especially super-zooms like 60-600mm) have minor focus breathing or internal backlash in focus motors.

• This can cause a tiny shift in focus when you release the button.

5. Low-Light or Low-Contrast Conditions

• AF inconsistency in low light or low-contrast scenes can be exaggerated when using an adapter.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Go for the Sony 6700

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Yes, it has some impact, but it’s not necessarily bad.

1. Low-Light Performance – Larger pixels (D5100) collect more light per pixel, which generally means:

• Better low-light performance

• Less noise at high ISOs

• Better dynamic range

• However, Nikon’s improved sensor tech and Expeed 4 processor in D5600 compensate for this.

2. More Megapixels = More Detail

• The D5600’s 24.2 MP sensor provides more fine details compared to the 16.2 MP sensor of D5100.

• However, smaller pixels may slightly increase noise at very high ISOs.

3. Better Autofocus & Features

• D5600 has a 39-point autofocus (vs 11-point on D5100) → Better subject tracking.

• Touchscreen & Wi-Fi (SnapBridge) make it more user-friendly.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Since no single lens covers 20mm to 200mm with a wide aperture and stabilization, you might need to go for two lenses:

1. Tamron 20-40mm f/2.8 Di III VXD (Best budget wide zoom)

• ✅ Fast f/2.8 aperture

• ✅ Compact & lightweight

• ✅ Great for landscapes & low-light

• ❌ No image stabilization, but Sony IBIS helps

2. Tamron 50-400mm f/4.5-6.3 Di III VC VXD (Best budget telephoto zoom)

• ✅ Covers 50mm to 400mm (can crop for more reach)

• ✅ Has Vibration Compensation (VC)

• ✅ Sharp images and great autofocus

• ❌ No f/2.8 aperture (but excellent reach & stabilization)

These two lenses combined will almost cover your desired range.

Other Possible Choices

1. Sony 24-105mm f/4 G OSS (For a balance of range, stabilization, and quality)

• ✅ Optical SteadyShot (OSS)

• ✅ Sharp, versatile, and reliable

• ❌ f/4 is not as wide as f/2.8

• ❌ Doesn’t reach 200mm

2. Sigma 60-600mm f/4.5-6.3 DG DN OS Sports (If you want crazy reach)

• ✅ Optical Stabilization (OS)

• ✅ Super versatile zoom range

• ❌ Heavy and large

[Sudhir Shivaram]

The camera / lens you have is a basic entry level one. Not sure what your expectations from them are. Also the issue you say is very difficult to resolve without knowing the lightig condition, what subject are you trying to shoot, how far are they etc etc. Can you please post a sample image of what you are trying to shoot?
Just to set the expectation, 1500D and 55-250 lens combination is a entry level model and cannot expected to be super fast.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

You can refer the Z9 guide for this as the menu system is the same across all these mirrorless models with only a few variations with the features and options.