[Sudhir Shivaram]

1. CFexpress Type A

   • Why choose it? This is the fastest and most capable card type supported by the A1, ideal for rapid 30 fps bursts and high-bitrate video. It clears the buffer approximately twice as fast as UHS-II SD cards—essential for extended continuous shooting

2. UHS-II SDXC (V60/V90)

   • Why choose it? A more budget-friendly option that still delivers strong performance. UHS-II cards can handle most photo and video tasks—but expect slower buffer clearance (~250 MB/s write speeds) compared to CFexpress (~600 MB/s in-camera) .

   • When it works: For 8K or high‑bitrate formats, UHS-II works (V60 for up to 400 Mbps; V90 for higher rates) but only if not pushing the absolute top limits

3. UHS-I SD Cards

   • Not ideal. These are significantly slower and not recommended unless you’re only shooting stills or low-bitrate video.

• Sony CFexpress Type A M‑Series (960 GB)

  Massive 960 GB capacity, VPG-200 rated, up to 700 MB/s write—perfect for prolonged, intensive shooting.

• Sony CFexpress Type A G‑Series (80 GB)

  Compact and lightning-fast Type A card—great for getting top-tier performance in a more affordable capacity.

• Lexar Professional 2000x UHS‑II SDXC (128 GB)

  High-speed V90 UHS‑II SD card offering excellent performance for photography and 4K video, at a friendlier price.

• SanDisk Extreme PRO UHS‑II SDXC

  A trusted, high-performance V90 SDXC option—reliable and well-supported for everyday pro use.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

This is what I use :

1. Leofoto Ranger LS-365C tripod

2. Leofoto BV-15 fluid head

[Sudhir Shivaram]

wow! FIR ?? Really?
I checked your issue. You sign up with one e-mail id and you try to access the course with a different e-mail id and send us these kind of messages? What kind of photographer will you become if you do not have the patience to talk to our support team to get issue resolved?

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Yes we are seeing this issue. My team is working on it to fix it.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

You can remove it with selective processing. If you want to completely remove it, that also is possible with cloning tool. Please do refer to the post processing course.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

https://learn.sudhirshivaramphotography.com/master-photography/ref/1/

learn.sudhirshivaramphotography.com

Master Of Photography

Master Of Photography

[Sudhir Shivaram]

That setting is not applicable to RAW files.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Dear Ipungwangbe, Most welcome to this learning platform. You are at the right location to get started with your learning. Wish you all the very best!

Rgds,
Sudhir

[Sudhir Shivaram]

You need to check if the simulation is on or not.

The “Live View Display” setting is the key to controlling exposure simulation. Navigate to MENU → (Shooting) → [Shooting Display] → [Live View Display Set]. Ensure “Effect on” is selected to preview exposure changes in real-time

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Foto circle at Anandrao Circle who is authorised Sony dealer.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Yes, the menu options are almost the same and you can refer it.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Please post sample image to understand better.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Going forward pls post your queries as a separate thread instead of asking in someone else thread of a different topic.

AF depends on light / contrast in the scene. And most importantly your camera + lens combination. If you have a f2.8 lens you have more light coming into the camera and hence faster AF compared to a f5.6 lens. It also depends on the camera model and the AF algorithm of that camera.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

Yep…agree. Both options results in similar noise in image. Instead of underexposing a lot, I would increase the ISO and get the correct exposure. Noise can be easily handled with Denoise of lightroom.

[Sudhir Shivaram]

I have added that file. Later in the day I will check in case any other RAW files are missing and will update it.